A Birthday CakeWalk (In PARIS!!)
For my birthday last year, I made myself a cake. And my husband made me kouign amann. It was amazing -- and much better than I probably could have done myself. Which is my husband's curse, really. He happens to do everything he tries (even for the first time) with total perfection and an off-handed manner which seems to say "oh that, was it supposed to be hard?"
We have different styles, he and I. I sweat, and toil, and scream, and step precipitously within inches of total destruction of my project, my sanity, and my home, before things (sometimes) turn around at the last desperate moment. He kind of just does things, and they work. (And our kitchen remains spotless. Somehow.)
Like I said, it can be a curse. In that when he attempts something, I end up turning over all future responsibility for that task to him (because he does it so well!) For example -- just about 10 years ago, he made me this lasagna. Life-changing lasagna. That's what I should call it. Because it was seriously the most (MOST) amazing lasagna I've ever had in my life. So much so, that for the last decade, I've been asking for it again. And he has been saying no. (He says it takes too long -- for which I say, "Is 36 hours really too long for perfection?" To which he says yes.) So this year I got clever, and asked for it as my birthday treat -- because on your birthday, you get whatever you want! Right!? And, oh my God -- he agreed. At first. And then, randomly -- totally innocently, he asked me if I wouldn't like to celebrate my birthday in Paris. Yes everyone, he chose to take me to Paris just so he wouldn't have to make the frickin' lasagna. (Because, really, is there a question in there? Paris!? Oui Oui!) He denies this whole dastardly plan by the way, but I have my doubts. So when the thought first occurred to me -- (wait -- wait, what about the lasagna!!) we came up with something of a deal, and decided to do a cake walk (get it -- cakewalk?) on my birthday. It really was more of a chocolate/confectionery/pastry walk, but you get the idea. Food 52 already had this beautiful itinerary on line, and we followed it almost to a tee.
Spoiler: It was amazing. AHHHMMMAAAAAZING. So much so that I almost forgot about the lasagna. Almost. But there's always next year.
The Paris Birthday CakeWalk, idea credit to Food 52
We started the day off at Le Primrose, our local choice for breakfast. It's not technically on the cakewalk, but we've been going here for 8 years, and it doesn't disappoint. And we needed some savories to provide a nice base for all of the sweets to come -- cappuccino, baguette, and croissants, along with some fresh OJ.
And we got a chance to map out our day.
Unfortunately, our walk started off a bit on the rocky side. It turns out that the first stop, Acide Macaron no longer has a shop at that location. Which was disappointing -- but just made us more eager to check out the next place.
1. Le Cacoatier
Even if you don't speak French (and I don't,) it's pretty obvious what the specialty of this store is. Chocolate anyone? Um, yes. That's a yes for me.
They sell more than just chocolate -- but that's what we focused on. Because why wouldn't you when Hubert Masse, the chocolatier, won the Grand Prix de Chocolate. I don't need to understand French to know that that means c'est magnifique!
Once we walked into Jacques Genin, we knew we were going to have a problem. Because, once again, we were surrounded by amazing displays of chocolate. I was beginning to think that the savory base was a mistake -- we should have done a 12 hour fast if we were going to survive the day. Quick thinking was required. Strategic plan: Forgo the chocolates for something new. The jewel colored gelees (in fruit AND veggie flavors!); the sticky sweet caramels (the mango caramel -- oh my GOD) -- they were calling our name -- and eventually won over our our hearts (and wallets.)
Now this. This chocolaterie. (Is that a word? It should be.) This was what I had been waiting for. I have to confess, I saw a picture of the whimsical delightful designs, and I was in love. And it did not disappoint -- from the adorable white chocolate hazelnut emojis to the larger than life lollys -- I felt like I had walked into a childrens book. You know, if you could eat a children's book.
The crowning touch? The airy, ethereal chocolate mousses, in hatbox sized bins. Yes -- moussES -- plural. What, you didn't know that six countries all contribute different compositions of that heavenly dark chocolate to make their own individual, so special, to-die-for desserts? Well they do -- and I got a cone all for myself.
🎶 It's my birthday, I can overindulge in chocolate if I want to. 🎶
The next stop, Des Gateaux et du Pain, was closed since it was a Tuesday. BOOOO. Although I suppose we should have been grateful to save some space in our stomachs. Onwards.
4. La Patisserie de Reves
Okay, all of you who don't know French -- I'm going to have to give you the translation for this one. Because it literally means "pastry shop of dreams."And boy, oh boy, did it live up to its name. Look at these gorgeous displays. . Major organizational envy for one thing -- those cute little wooden trays make the bread look even more appetizing, if possible. And how about those floating cloches?? It's like the breads are about to be showered with all sorts of delectable scents and flavors. Dream-like, indeed.
Despite the dozens of gorgeous pastries vying for attention, one definitely stood out above the rest. The Paris-Brest is a choux pastry filled with a peanut butter pastry cream. Choux pastry is the same dough that cream puffs are made of, and I make it a rule to never, ever, ever order a cream puff out. Cream puffs rely on the textural difference between the crispy outer pastry and the silky smooth inner cream. When they're not eaten fresh, the dough gets mealy, and it's not pleasant. It's something that I've never been able to enjoy, even at top bakeries -- and there's nothing sadder than a sad cream puff. This, however, my friends, was the exception. And exceptional. And I owe my last minute change of heart to the lovely British lady I met outside, who said she has been returning annually to this very bakery for the past decade (so yeah -- 10 years) simply to enjoy the Paris-Brest. I mean, I know England is closer to France than the United States, but that takes commitment! I took her word for it and I don't regret it. Take my word for it -- you won't regret it either.
5. Angelina
Okay folks, I know I'm going to get pushback on this, because this place has a cult following, but. . . I just wasn't feeling it. (Not that that takes anything away from the beautiful blush themed shop. I was channeling Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast for Tiffany's just walking around in there.
BUT -- it wasn't my cup of cocoa for sure. I guess I'm more of a Swiss Miss gal, because drinking this hot chocolate felt like gulping down a bunch of chocolate sludge. HOT chocolate sludge. Way too thick -- so thick that it almost felt like drinking a carafe of melted chocolate (but not as good.) A no for me, I'm afraid. I just wish I had figured that out before purchasing a kilogram of the mix. I did bring it home, all the way to Ohio, so anyone who actually likes the chocolate, make sure to drop by for a cup.
6. Le Grande Epicerie de Paris
Who here likes to grocery shop? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Well get ready to change your mind. I found the grand daddy of grocery shops -- or Le Grande Epicerie in this case (see what I did there? Feel free to laugh. . . )
Friends: I walked in and heard angels singing. For real. I'm not even going to explain anymore. Because a picture is worth a thousand words. And trust me, a thousand words wouldn't even cover the entrance.
Anyone else in a food daze yet? In the interest of full disclosure, we actually had another stop planned for the walk. But after that? Nope -- we were done. Time to head home and enjoy the haul.
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